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Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 30333 times)

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russ

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Surfing
« on: January 25, 2009, 09:52:20 PM »
I am a 52 year old surfer who has been surfing at competition level for 35 years. I am having the BHR op in a few weeks and would like to hear from any surfers who have had the op and their experiences with surfing after surgery. Russ

hawaiieric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2009, 05:10:03 AM »
Aloha Russ,

I just had the surgery 12 weeks ago.  I think I might go longboarding soon, when time and waves permit.  I have heard of others surfing at around that timeframe too.  I think the doctor will tell you 6 months for impact sports, so go figure.  If and when I pull out my log, its like a 1972 Liko team rider 9'6" and 23+ wide and 3 1/2"+ thick. (a real log and pretty heavy too) I will only go out in clean offshore stuffs, and I am not really rushing to jump into it, but am ready.  I practiced hoping to my stance one afternoon in shallow water, then simply on the sand.  I was kind of tight, but that was 2 weeks+ ago, and since then squating down is easier and easier every day.  Been painting my house and to get the low spots I find myself squatting quiet a bit.

I will give you an update on my first real session with my log. (I did ride a friend soft top longboard-he teaches and the waves were pretty good, but stopped when I jumped off and found it was pretty shallow, more then I thought, and then I thought..maybe not so smart)  Will be nice to get back to my shortboard, I have been paddling it around after my PT snorkle swimming to keep my arms fresh.

Eric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2009, 01:50:10 AM »
Hey Russ I know a couple guys who surf with thr's, I would think a resurfacing would be even better.  Do you know Billy Stewart ?  He has a thr and is back in the line-up.  Surfing again pain free sounds pretty good, I can't wait 8)

wayne-0

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2009, 09:16:13 PM »
Hey Russ,

Terry Senate had both hips resurfaced two years ago and surfs. I had my hips resurfaced 3 months ago and not ready yet to get back in the water but hopefully in the next month sometime I'll give it a go.

Wayne
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2009, 12:55:20 AM »
This dosen't really have anything to do with hips but I had to go down south today so we went by Blacks and took a picture. It's bigger than it looks, and was a stormy mess, but I bet it's good tommorow morning :D

Timdplumber

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2009, 04:47:06 PM »
Hey Russ,

Terry Senate had both hips resurfaced two years ago and surfs. I had my hips resurfaced 3 months ago and not ready yet to get back in the water but hopefully in the next month sometime I'll give it a go.

Wayne
Hey Wayne & B.I.L.L. I see you're both in San Diego. Or I'm guessing you are with the photo of Blacks, & Wayne, the little Dr. Ball with your operation date @ the bottom of your post. I'm in SD too. In fact I'm going to see Dr. Ball tomorrow for the first time. I'd love to talk to you about your BHRs. I suffered a displaced femoral neck fracture last August, skateboarding, and my personal thought is I need either a BHR or THR. I asked my ortho doc to give me a referral for a 2nd opinion & specifically asked for Dr. Ball. Email me if you can. Timdplumber@gmail.com.
I too am hoping to surf again.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2009, 05:06:28 PM by Timdplumber »

wayne-0

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2009, 01:03:13 AM »
Hey Tim,
I went surfing for the first time on Saturday( 4 months post op).The waves were small and weak but I went anyway. I caught 12 waves but couldn't get to my feet yet. I came real close 3 times getting to my feet but I am just not there yet. Soon I hope. The last 4 weeks since I went back to work I sorta stopped doing my PT and I think that has slowed my ROM from returning to where I want it to be. So i have started doing my PT again and hope that will make a big difference next time I get in the water.I'm from south Orange County so Salt Creek,Trestles,San Clemente and San Onofre are the spots. I will keep you posted.Good luck at your consult with Dr. Ball, you can't go wrong with him as I feel he is a great surgeon.

Wayne
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2009, 09:47:00 PM »
Hey Russ,

Terry Senate had both hips resurfaced two years ago and surfs. I had my hips resurfaced 3 months ago and not ready yet to get back in the water but hopefully in the next month sometime I'll give it a go.

Wayne
Hey Wayne & B.I.L.L. I see you're both in San Diego. Or I'm guessing you are with the photo of Blacks, & Wayne, the little Dr. Ball with your operation date @ the bottom of your post. I'm in SD too. In fact I'm going to see Dr. Ball tomorrow for the first time. I'd love to talk to you about your BHRs. I suffered a displaced femoral neck fracture last August, skateboarding, and my personal thought is I need either a BHR or THR. I asked my ortho doc to give me a referral for a 2nd opinion & specifically asked for Dr. Ball. Email me if you can. Timdplumber@gmail.com.
I too am hoping to surf again.



Hey Tim, I'm in san clemente, just had some time to kill in la jolla so we went to the glider port for a surf check and took a picture. I got back in the water last sunday on a longboard at sano's. It was basicly flat but I was able to go from paddling to sitting and back to paddling pain free wich was nice. Never made it too my feet but rode a few little dribblers on my belly and got the giggles haha. Back at it this weekend for attempt number 2.  What did Dr. Ball say ?  Hope you heard what you wanted to hear.  Good Luck.

Hey Wayne-o, I'll call you tomorrow (Fri), I gotta extra 10 footer if you want to go to sano's and go log wrestling  :D :D

russ

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2009, 12:43:12 AM »
It's great to see so many surfers out there who have replied to my initial inquiry. All your info, as well as the info from the website certainly increased my understanding of the operation and what to expect.

Am back surfing, but laying down on my board and getting some good rides. In fact, I can pull into smaller tubes which is a bit of a buzz. I started doing this about 6 weeks after op following some practise with paddling. Am aware that if I have a wipe out it could set me back so I choose carefully.  I  tried to stand up a few weeks ago to see what would happen and the pain was unbearable. I am doing this on my 6' 3" short board in waves about 3'-6' - point and beach breaks. Am also bike riding, walking, mowing the lawn, driving the car etc . My physio
(who is a surfer) has got me on exercises which enhance core strength and am starting to build up hip and leg power. I feel like I am floating - everything is so much better than before the op.

However it wasn't all great for the first 6 weeks. The op went well  and only cost a couple of k thanks to Australian health system and private insurance. I was the last to leave hospital of all those done on the same day so when I got home I went a liitle too fast with things and ended up back in hospital . Living on an island off QLD didn't make this easy. Have learnt not to compare my recovery with anyone else's. Was concerned also about amt of bruising all over lower torso and under the toes but this went eventually as did most of the swelling.

Each day brings new things I can do and quality of life has definately improved. Once I can stand up (hopefully I can hold off 'til the 6 mth mark when the surgeon and the physio will say ok) life will be even better.

Russ

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2009, 11:53:30 PM »
Went to san onofre today and got 2 good ones, (out of 4 ;D) I was able to get up a little quicker today but still taking off laying down or on all fours doggie style, then clambering up to my feet after the initial take off, but once I get to my feet its all good !!  Keep at it, it will come back. 8)

wayne-0

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2009, 08:32:36 PM »
Went surfing again with Bill at San-0. This time was much better than last time.Got up on six waves and watched Bill get up on just about every wave he caught.I borrowed Bill's 8' fun board and that was much easier than my shortboard. While I'm not able to get up on every wave I caught I am getting closer and closer. Hey Bill even if you call me a hood ornament :-[  I am still gonna go surfing and try ;D.

Wayne
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2009, 12:06:54 AM »
Went surfing again with Bill at San-0. This time was much better than last time.Got up on six waves and watched Bill get up on just about every wave he caught.I borrowed Bill's 8' fun board and that was much easier than my shortboard. While I'm not able to get up on every wave I caught I am getting closer and closer. Hey Bill even if you call me a hood ornament :-[  I am still gonna go surfing and try ;D.

Wayne


HaHa.  Tomorrow ???

hawaiieric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2009, 06:07:51 PM »
The winds have been light over here, small south swells are rolling in.  This morning I went south and after walking my dogs for an hour, I took out my 9' twin fin log, its a great board, and paddled out into 1-3' surf.  I got 10 waves today, I actually tried to surf before today, but I call this my first real session since it was a reef break, and I popped up and landed all my waves. (not as quick as I used to be, but my foot was landing close to the right spot and I was making my drops)  I was happy with what I got wave wise, so I paddled in.  While walking over to the showers and back I could feel the muscles close to the new hip, not bad, but just slightly tender from the hopping action and the kickout to lowering myself back down the board to paddle back out.  Not bad for it being close to the 7month mark since surgery. 

Very tempted to stand up paddle now, for no popping needed.  Can't wait for the winds to come back so I can kitesurf.
Eric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2009, 12:36:53 AM »
Good for you Eric, thats cool. I still can't "pop" up on takeoff and am basicly making the drop on all fours and then crawling up, but I can tell I will get there sooner or later, I was close on a couple.
Also was checking out the stand up paddlers at dogpatch and I gotta admit it does look like fun, and no jumping up quickly needed,  hhmmm......


Pretty much my new schedule is every thursday after work I'm going surfing.  Warm, cold, good, crappy, glassy, blown, whatever, I'm on it no matter what. If nothing else at least I'll be paddling, I want (no wait, "will") surf like a normal dude again, I just don't know when, I'm a little closer every week 8)

Hey Wayne-o you reeeeeeaaalllyy missed it last thursday, the wind stopped, the sun came out, it picked up with the incoming tide, the crowd was just me and 4 or 5 beautiful women who were just learning, they had steaks and lobsters on the grill when I came in and then.....







.........I woke up ;D 

Just kidding it sucked.   But I did get 5 or 6 little ones.   You in for this thursday ?   

wayne-0

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2009, 12:45:50 AM »
You shouldn't have woke up Bill. Thursday I'm in, this time I won't flake on ya.

Wayne-0 
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

hawaiieric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2009, 02:40:26 AM »
Ok, light winds so I went down for a sunset session again...this time on my big longboard, 9'6" and like 3+ thick, I think it has a motor on it too but I haven't found the start button so I just paddle it in..got over 10 waves..all good..easier then the other 9'0 log..but yeah, just go and do it for its better then just excersizing da elbow muscles with the 12 oz curls.  This session due to the board was way easier...way!  So I think I will go back come early morning..love my life.
Just keep doing it and brag when can...
Eric

btw, had that same dream Bill, had to force myself back to sleep when I woke up and realize it was a dream, to recapture it... :P

B.I.L.L.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #16 on: June 03, 2009, 01:49:33 AM »
Ok, light winds so I went down for a sunset session again...this time on my big longboard, 9'6" and like 3+ thick, I think it has a motor on it too but I haven't found the start button so I just paddle it in..got over 10 waves..all good..easier then the other 9'0 log..but yeah, just go and do it for its better then just excersizing da elbow muscles with the 12 oz curls.  This session due to the board was way easier...way!  So I think I will go back come early morning..love my life.
Just keep doing it and brag when can...
Eric

btw, had that same dream Bill, had to force myself back to sleep when I woke up and realize it was a dream, to recapture it... :P


I'm on a 10'0"  tanker that should have cf #'s on it, and Wayne-o's on my daughters 8' thruster/egg/funboard thing.  The log is the easiest for me.   Off to sleep now, thats where I really rip and hopefully I don't wake up after steak and langostas with the models......I'd like to sleep till morning wink wink... ;D 8)

Were on for thursday Wayne-o, same Bat time, same Bat channel. 

B.I.L.L.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2009, 02:44:42 AM »
Caught and rode a wave today !!! ;D Not whitewater, actually did a couple cutbacks and bottom turns and an off the lip rolla coaster thing when the wave closed out.  First "Real" wave on the new hip, Stoked !!    Still didn't "pop' right up, but I don't care it was soooo nice to ride an open faced wave and go down the line like a "normal" surfer again :D :D   haha I want more.....what a feeling 8)

hawaiieric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #18 on: June 24, 2009, 02:47:19 AM »
Sheba...u might have to SUP..lol.......

I been logging and loving it..but the SUP has been interesting me..but would rather kite..or maybe I can get u to kite...


Way to go on your surf day Bill...who has more waves..you or Wayne at this point..

btw, how is your business and your son stepping it up..hope all is well.

Got a beer in my hand and had good wind..so all is good here,
Eric

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #19 on: June 24, 2009, 09:46:33 AM »
Sheba...u might have to SUP..lol.......

I been logging and loving it..but the SUP has been interesting me..but would rather kite..or maybe I can get u to kite...


Way to go on your surf day Bill...who has more waves..you or Wayne at this point..

btw, how is your business and your son stepping it up..hope all is well.

Got a beer in my hand and had good wind..so all is good here,
Eric


Whats up Eric ?  Funny you mentioned my son, he leaves for Kauai  this morning at 8am.   He got invited to stay with a friend for a week. They're staying at the Parrish collection in a 3 bedroom house.  Are you familiar with those ?  They brought their bodyboards and are hoping to find some fun waves. Any hints or secret spots ?? ;D  I meant to talk to you before they left but the date snuck up on me. The kid he's going with said there is a good bodyboard/bodysurfing spot near there ??   
 I've talked to a couple sup guys and turns out a few have new hips  8)
they also said: It's easier to catch waves, it's warmer (not an issue for you :D), it's easier to spot sets and get in position, it's fun cause you can look down into the water between sets and see the bottom/fish etc.    They look like fun but I think I get more exercise paddling and I want to surf juicy waves again so popping up will be my main goal for the next couple months.  And work is.....well.............work.  HaHa it's all good.  I can text and call my son, anything they should check out over there ?  Thanks !  Bill.   

 

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