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Author Topic: Waves  (Read 3628 times)

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gl3

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Waves
« on: April 07, 2009, 06:55:26 AM »
Went to the beach with my kids and stood in the shallows and pushed them on their boogie boards and kept seeing fun waves so I finally grabbed the longboard and went for a paddle workout. Felt a little stiff paddling but a nice little peak  came right to me so i paddled for it and got up but it rolled underneath me but I jumped right up. Another wave came right away so I got it and was definiely slower to my feet but I rode it for about 25 yards and looked up and my wife and kids were cheering ! I got one more and did not want to push it so hard. Wow what a great feeling it was so happy                   
                                   George 4 months to the day post op


                                         Dr Scmalzreid






hawaiieric

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Re: Waves
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2009, 09:59:25 AM »
Aloha George,

Great to hear that, I was there where you were, watching my friends wife doing her thing in the waves and then I jumped on a board and yes, showed off.  I did beforehand do jumps to my feet in preperation to the day I would surf, just lay in the sand at waters edge and then jump up and pretend I was jumping on my board, it was my confidence building thing at 3 months.  I surfed only 2 times since my operation, and it was not bragable, but I did it and gave myself my cheer...to those, you can..but the jump to stance is a tricky thing till the muscles get strong..been kiting though, that is way easier I think..and it gives me a huge rush..so I am happy..I have not posted lately because I am going to my 6 month xray and doctor visit tomorrow/today..so will give more info on what I am doing...but so far, feeling great!  Way to go George, love hearing others breaking out and doing it..
Eric

Pat Walter

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Re: Waves
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2009, 06:40:38 PM »
Way to go George!

Good control on your part to not push it too much.  You are still early in your recovery.  Think what you will be doing next year at this time!

Good Luck.

Pat
Webmaster/Owner of Surface Hippy
3/15/06 LBHR De Smet

wayne-0

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Re: Waves
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2009, 12:04:06 AM »
Way to go George.Do you normally ride a long board? I have been bodyboarding like crazy 3-5 times a week for the last month.Trying to get the arms back in shape.I feel really good back in the water and feel really comfortable again in the lineup.I think I will try and surf this weekend.Bill I need to borrow the long board, I'm ready to try.

Wayne
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

B.I.L.L.

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Re: Waves
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2009, 08:09:58 AM »
Way to go George.Do you normally ride a long board? I have been bodyboarding like crazy 3-5 times a week for the last month.Trying to get the arms back in shape.I feel really good back in the water and feel really comfortable again in the lineup.I think I will try and surf this weekend.Bill I need to borrow the long board, I'm ready to try.

Wayne

Anytime. I have wanted to hook up for the afterwork t-street deal but 2 weeks ago I had to fire my main pool cleaner after he decided to not clean any pools and still collect his check for the last 2 weeks of march. I guess he was ready to quit but figured he could slide and collect a couple weeks of free money before he bailed, nice huh ?
 So I have been going nuts having my wife, my son, my friends and anyone else I could find to help me clean 16-20 pools a day plus still try to do the repairs and phone calls etc. Luckily I pulled some sympathy points from most of my customers ha ha and only had to give a few of em 2 weeks credit, and only lost 2 accounts, we are just now getting them all back to primo ::)   So no off at 4:00 pm for me lately.  But my hip is working pretty good, It's swolen by the end of the day and I have to ice it every night but right now after two weeks of 10 hour days I feel it getting easier to get up from a squat and think I could pop up to my feet pretty good now (as soon as I get the time)  This saturday might work. Wayne  you can borrow a longboard anytime you want, just call me on the cell, I'll show you the house and introduce you to the dog, after that just come by and grab it whenever you want, no big deal 8)
   Hey George thats awesome for 4 months, "Mo Bettah dan me bruddah"!!!
(hows my pidgeon Eric ?)

 :D Let me know Wayne-O    My comp. was down for a few weeks, glad to see you've been hittin' it after work,  tomorrow is my lightest day, maybe able to go at 4 if the rain don't f it up.... See ya. Bill
   

wayne-0

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Re: Waves
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2009, 05:03:33 AM »
Bill and I went surfing at San-o on Friday. Well I got up on my first wave but it took some time to get up. I didn't just jump right up, I did the knee to one foot then the other foot thing. Once I got up it was no problem to surf or turn. I caught 4 more waves but didn't get up on those but came real close. Felt like the thigh muscle was a little weak still trying to get up but I did get up on one wave which is progress. First time in four years I was able to stand up on a surfboard ;D. Bill caught 4 or 5 waves and got up on all of his waves except the first one. We were stoked just to stand up again, kind of like a couple of school kids hitting the waves after school. Thanks Bill for letting me borrow the long board and the after session beers 8). Hey Eric it was windy that day you could of kited out there down the line rights side shore wind!

Wayne-0
11-7-08  Bilat/Dr.Ball/ASR

gl3

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Re: Waves
« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2009, 06:02:31 AM »


Good job Wayne and Bill ! I have not surfed again yet but I swam some laps
and rode the bike the other day. I need to start paddling because I was a
sore in the shouders the next day. The waves I did catch I was a bit stiff
getting to my feet.I am  not sure if I need to wait a while longer to go again
or just work on getting looser ?

                             GL

hawaiieric

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Re: Waves
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2009, 10:34:23 AM »
Ok, now I jealous for I haven't gone surf for a while, but have been tempted since it was not as windy lately.  Its been 1-4 on the south over here and perfect(perfect being beers in the cooler for when you come in)so I been surfing the cooler lately.  Really, got one for you, before you guys go out next time, look like a beginner, do the on your board thing or on the sand, and do pop ups, for I think I was exactly what you guys did my last time out, so in other words, loosen up da metal...or warm it up and get confident on your pop.  My pop ended up landing with both feet together or not where it was supposed to go..so for real, try it and tell me if it works...give yourselves 10-20 pop ups and pretend your dropping in..bet it will work, since you guys are just getting back to it.  I got some days off and a little wind, so guess I just going to kite, but might have to hit up Bill if he needs someone to do his pool work, so I can get a semi-paid vacation with surf and hanging up with you guys..

are your elbows in good shape??  got to try fire rock...
Eric

B.I.L.L.

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Re: Waves
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2009, 06:03:36 AM »
Yeah it felt awesome to ride a surfboard again. Once I got to my feet it was almost like I never stopped, but getting up took about 1/2 the wave :D.  I was one useless s.o.b. on saturday though. I think me and Wayne came to the conclusion that it was one thing to get your feet under you, but another to have the strength to stand up from such a low squat, but once your up no problame-o.  I'm a regular foot and my back foot is the operated side. I was stoked to witness Wayne-O's
first wave with his new 2 ball joints!!  I know his surgery was a month and a half after mine and he did both at once, yikes... Good job Dude !!  (of course he only weighs slightly more than a large bird, so thats cheating) HaHa just kidding man ;D
 I plan to work on my wall squats and try again this weekend.  Where do you live George ?  We need a third stooge haha.  For sure felt like a total beginner, all ear to ear smiles over  2 foot mushburgers, Good Stuff !  8)

Hey Eric, Trust me you don't wanna clean pools, it's tons of work for tens of dollars, leave it for the youngsters.   Gonna have to find some fire rock for the next session, maybe it will make the water seem warmer... ;D     See ya, Bill

 

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