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Author Topic: YOU CAN SURF AGAIN!  (Read 2057 times)

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kster

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YOU CAN SURF AGAIN!
« on: December 16, 2009, 01:26:22 AM »
In 2004 I had to give up surfing due to the pain and lack of range of motion in my hips. I proceeded to start knee boarding. It could be fun, but it's just not the same. I found out about Dr Ball getting guys back in the water, so I jumped on the resurface as I was a good candidate. In Oct 2007 at age 39 I had my left hip resurfaced, which gave me a lot of relief, but the other hip was still deteriorating. In Oct 2008 I had the right hip resurfaced also. Between surgeries I started Stand Up Paddle Sufing (SUP), which gave me a lot of the joy of surfing back, plus great exercise. Now I'm 14 months post op, and surfing my 9'0" as well as the SUP, and borrowing smaller boards working my way down to a short board again. If you're thinking of the resurfacing or are in recovery, I'm hear to tell you, you can get back to the life and surfing that you love!

hawaiieric

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Re: YOU CAN SURF AGAIN!
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2009, 05:38:11 PM »
Aloha,

I am 1 year plus a month and a half out from my surgery.  I have been surfing when the waves are good and when the winds take a back seat.  I have been using my longer boards, a 9'6" log that makes it super easy to get up and into waves, also a 9'0 high performance log that is easy too.  This month I bust out my 7' twinfin fish and a 8' big wave board this month and chased down some sizable surf.  The waves were really good and my popping to my feet does not really take much in thought..and my feet seem to get to their position pretty good.  I still am slightly not in surfer shape(paddling arms) since most all the time I seem to kite surf, but I am proud to say that I am surfing and not taking any wipeouts as of yet on my dropping in.  The waves have ranged from waist to head high to some double over head for me.  I have to be picky on my spots though, only perfect conditions seem to excite me these days. This month the Eddie went and there were days where 30-40' waves were here with some 50' also showing up too.  The wrap from this big surf gave most all spot waves in some sort of way.

Oh, and also a Merry Christmas to everyone!!!  May Santa bring you all warm weather, lots of waves and even some warm water currents for all's I want for Christmas is a 6' wave(and a 25K north wind for me ;) )
Aloha,
Eric

jwtoto

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Re: YOU CAN SURF AGAIN!
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2009, 05:42:48 PM »
Hey, Eric, Jerry here. I am going to have my right hip resurfaced in 2010 (that's my rear leg for surfing). Right now I am locating a surgeon. There are a couple of good ones in my area. Reading your story gets me fired up about surfing again since I haven't been out in a little over a year. I live in NorCal so I'll be in a thick wetsuit when the time comes. I figure that when I can wiggle into the rubber costume my hip will be flexible enough to go out. I'll paddle for a while to get the feel of being in the ocean again. Then someday a wave will come that has my name on it and I'll go for it. Thanks for the good energy you bring to this forum, Eric.

                                                 Aloha,

                                                       Jerry
Jerry RBHR Dr. Su 4/15/2010

 

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