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Author Topic: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision  (Read 5429 times)

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Tim Bratten

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Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« on: September 24, 2014, 07:37:53 PM »
I thought I'd put this here, so any interested people might see it:

First off I should emphasize that I am not recommending that anyone do anything that I've done! However, I've had a very satisfying recovery from the revision and now the HR. At almost eight months after the HR and two years seven months after revision to a THR, I regularly boulder outdoors (I've done some V4s), jump down from the top of my home wall while training indoors (pads three layers deep) and have led dozens of routes (both trad and sport) including some 5.11s. Thinking that someone who climbs might be interested to see what is possible with revision to THR and/or HR (and what will be the consequences of my approach) I started doing a blog that is mostly pictures but also answers questions about how my recovery has evolved (it only goes to five months so far, but I'm working on it):

http://timbratten.blogspot.com.ar/
« Last Edit: September 26, 2014, 02:09:04 AM by Tim Bratten »
Botched LHR by Dr. Vilicich 06-17-2010 revised by Koen De Smet 02-14-2012
RHR Koen De Smet 02-05-2014

hernanu

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2014, 11:39:25 PM »
I think it's great info, Tim. The reason we do this is to get back our life, you've done great at that.
Hernan, LHR 8/24/2010, RHR 11/29/2010 - Cormet, Dr. Snyder

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2015, 02:29:54 PM »
Thanks for this and your blog Tim, very inspiring!
Today marks three months since my LBHR, yesterday I reckon I was back to 90% on the bouldering wall after only four visits, climbing V2/3 with only a handful of failures due to strength or ROM. I had intended to start at six weeks but hurt myself that day by walking too far too fast so it was week 8 before I made it to the wall and was still fairly inflexible and had to work around a stiff leg on the easiest routes. Yesterday I had a quick 9 mile walk in the morning before a two-hour session on the wall and it did not seem to affect me at all.

Very pleased to be on track towards a summer on the crag!

Pete
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

toby

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2015, 02:43:41 PM »
Hi Pete,
Welcome and good to hear from a fellow UK hippy- great that your recovery is going well.
You're sure doing well for 3 months!
Your signature says  Nov-2013?
Best
Toby
LHR Adept-Prof Cobb-30-1-10

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2015, 03:02:38 PM »
Thanks Toby, fixed the date!
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

ecchastang

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2015, 03:11:23 PM »
This is exciting to read, as I am an avid climber myself, having done V8 and 12d outside.  I have my first appt with a resurfacing Dr. in a week and a half.  I hope to get something done before summer so that I can be back to full speed by the beginning of next year.  My finger strength is better than ever, but pain and ROM issues with my right hip have definitely hindered my progress and performance.  I had to stop bouldering outside about 8 months ago, and now even with super padded gym floors, I downclimb so that I only drop from about 3 ft.  Any higher and it hurts pretty bad. 
Apr 8th, 2015 Biomet U/C Dr. Gross

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2015, 04:58:11 PM »
12d did not exist when I climbed in Yosemite in the seventies!

Did operate a bit in the 5.11s though - New Dimensions, The Rostrum and Butterfingers were plenty hard enough for me...
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

Tim Bratten

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2015, 12:01:15 PM »
Great to hear from some other climbers! I'm climbing as regularly as possible these days and the hips are not an issue. Now I just need to lose another 5 kg. to get down to my ideal weight!
Cheers
Tim

Botched LHR by Dr. Vilicich 06-17-2010 revised by Koen De Smet 02-14-2012
RHR Koen De Smet 02-05-2014

shoraztri

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2015, 07:49:39 PM »
Hi petemeads,
Was reading up on your efforts , post Op. and see that it looks like you are progressing very well. I also noted that you were a very fast runner- 1/2 Marathon and Full M. Am curious to know if you are wanting to get back into running again , and at "pace " so to speak .
I am approaching 9 months Post Op. and resurrecting my Run side of things. I do triathlon in a serious as mode. Standard and Sprint Distances only , although my Bucket List has a Half Ironman Race on it !!.
Do you think you will get back to your former speed and efforts , or are you going to be somewhat more conservative. How is the speed for running now , or perhaps it is to early for this . I had my LBHR in July, 2014.
Thanks ,
 Kiwi Boy from Down Under.
LHBHR. 7 JULY 2014. DR. HUGH BLACKLEY. SOUTHERN CROSS HOSPITAL, NORTH SHORE, NZ.
Fem Head 50.  Cup Size 56.  D.O.B. 03/1952.

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2015, 11:36:35 PM »
Hi Kiwi Boy, thanks for the compliment! My serious running was done in the eighties, with London 89 as my PB - the week after I got married. After that I drifted into longer events in the hills,  because they did less damage than pounding the pavements and were a different sort of challenge. Speed gave way to endurance, up to just under 24 hours in the case of the Bob Graham round of the Lake District.
Then came a prolonged period of sporadic training interspersed with studying for a degree and raising a family and I did not really make any effort to train seriously or compete until 2008 when I finally finished working shifts and could run at lunchtimes with a handful of workmates, of a wide range of abilities! First attempt at 5 miles with the group found me blown up at 3 miles and walking back the short way, six months later I could hold my own again but had not raced so I entered the local 10 miler and got round in 78 minutes, well pleased, and somewhat surprised. Obviously the next thing was a half marathon, even more surprising at 1:41, and just before the end of the year another at very short notice in 1:38:20 - aged nearly 59.
I suddenly had great hopes of making Gold standards as a 60 year old but unfortunately the arthritis was getting worse and I was getting stiffer and more creaky and training got reduced as a result, with a final half just under 1:39 seven months short of my 60th. That winter wife and I discovered parkrun, a UK invention which is spreading globally, a 5km free timed run around a local park in many towns and cities. My very first 5k attempt was 22:53 having never run such a short distance, and I managed to get that down to 22:03 after six weeks. Since then my times have gone downhill because I did not train any more, just raced on Saturdays, and even that stopped a month before my op because it hurt too much. My last 5k time was 27:22, the same as my wife's PB!
Since the op I have shuffled around the course with a trekking pole, before the run officially started, and recently started jogging properly again, with a best time of 27:26 and pain-free in the new hip. The other still hurts, though, and I have definitely lost condition despite walking most days and static biking up to 20 miles equivalent in one session, a total of 225 miles on foot and 110 on the bike.
Going forward, I would love to be able to run freely again and train properly but the natural hip will complain and I am more concerned to get a good season of rock climbing than do more running. I have the problem of deciding when to schedule the second BHR - late this year or sometime next - and time is generally running out (I'm 64 now).
Seeing my wife training most days now, after a lifetime of not running, is making me very jealous. I told my surgeon that running was a lower priority than mountain walking and climbing - but I miss being able to jog or run when I feel like it so at the moment I am in a bit of a quandary. I got relatively fit in 2013 by just adding one session a week of 400metre intervals, which is a horrible thing to do but works really well for me. When the new hip is six months old I would like to see how well I could manage this again.
Good luck in your recovery, you have time on your side and a fascinating discipline which I have never tried, being a rubbish swimmer, and training for the bike and swim can be done well before running starts in earnest - you will do well I'm sure!
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

shoraztri

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2015, 02:22:01 AM »
Hi petemeads,
Hey , THANKS HEAPS for the top reply and info. We are not to far away in our ages , i am just about 63yrs young, so you data is very interesting. Presently are around the 05:40pkm pace mark and can squeeze out a 5 or 6km if needed.Once July comes , I will be 12 months , so will look forward to doing some more run training then. Although it will be our winter here , I'm sure the odd rainy and cold session will bring me back to reality. Pre Op. my 10km Run time in a Standard Distance Olympic Tri was 44:00 roughly.
The goal is to try and get to say 45:00 , so I will have a few months of training to get to this point , hopefully, and for the December start of our 2015-2016 season.
I guess its a case of monitoring things and LISTENING TO THE BODY. The "old days " of pushing ones self thru pain will no longer apply !!. Time to use the brain!! for a change. Still is a challenge to improve in the Swim , and find that my Biking is competitive.
All the best in your recovery , and no doubt , we will touch base again .
Cheers ,
 Kiwi Boy.  :D
LHBHR. 7 JULY 2014. DR. HUGH BLACKLEY. SOUTHERN CROSS HOSPITAL, NORTH SHORE, NZ.
Fem Head 50.  Cup Size 56.  D.O.B. 03/1952.

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2015, 10:48:12 PM »
Hi climbers - having had 5 trips to the local bouldering wall over the last couple of months, and steadily getting more capable, I finally made it to the leading wall tonight - and it was great! Apart from one route, where the crux move involved more power from my left toes than I was prepared to risk, everything I tried went really well. Pre-op I could manage sport grade 6b, tonight I was doing 6a and 6a+ routes with decent style. Roll on a warm dry summer on the real crags!
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

Tim Bratten

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2015, 12:12:08 PM »
All right, petemeads, sounds like you're on track: three months and back on the sharp end!
Botched LHR by Dr. Vilicich 06-17-2010 revised by Koen De Smet 02-14-2012
RHR Koen De Smet 02-05-2014

ecchastang

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2015, 02:41:29 PM »
Are you able to do heel hooks with your operated leg?
Apr 8th, 2015 Biomet U/C Dr. Gross

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #14 on: March 06, 2015, 03:28:06 PM »
Heel hooks seem OK, just a bit reluctant to put extra stress on the operated leg with a small toehold and a squirmy chimneying sort of move to make - but I could just reach the belay by stretching madly and grabbing so no marks for style there but no retreat either... :)
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

Tim Bratten

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2015, 12:26:07 PM »
Hi hippy climbers
Yesterday was a holiday and I sent my first 7a (11d US grade) post hip problems.  Sure it was sport, it took me three tries and I had tried it before, last November, but the actually send felt pretty solid, so that's good for me. I'm one year three months post resurfacing and three years three months post revision and I don't think I've done anything this hard in about a decade. Who knows, maybe I'll get a 5.12 this year?

There were only two of us climbing, so no photos, but here's me trying the route las November:

Botched LHR by Dr. Vilicich 06-17-2010 revised by Koen De Smet 02-14-2012
RHR Koen De Smet 02-05-2014

petemeads

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Re: Rock climbing and bouldering post HR and revision
« Reply #16 on: May 16, 2015, 12:53:29 PM »
Way to go, Tim! I have not got near 7a in sport climbing yet, although I could lead 5.11d in the 70's (just about). So far I have only managed one day on real rock but that went well, albeit I took great care to tackle routes I would not expect to fall off. Mended hip seems to be 100% for climbing but the rest of me is a bit feeble nowadays...
Age 69, LBHR 48mm head 18th Nov 2014 and RTHR 36mm head Zimmer ceramic/ceramic 2nd May 2017 by Mr Christopher Kershaw, Spire hospital, Leicester UK.

 

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